Chicago

Argh! I cna't find it via google, but there's an inside-the-loop Irish parish called, obviously enough, St. Patrick's that had a great renovation in the early 90s. The stained glass is really, really good.

Ukraininan Village (a neighborhood) is well worth walking around -- lots of old churches in good repair.

The Opus Dei parish is St. Mary of the Angels (an old Polish parish) -- huge and very baroque! -- and in that general neighborhood (though if it is really in Ukrainian Village is beyond my limited knowledge).

It sounds like Amy 's going to Chicago too. Maybe you can trade notes with her.

I'll also make a plug for St. Mary of the Angels. It is the parish that my wife's mother and grandmother grew up attending (very Polish family). We attended Mass there the Sunday before Labor Day (2002). Very beautiful and reverent! Also, if you go, check out their bookstore. Very good stuff, orthodox Catholicism, to be sure!

Holy Name Cathedral has been modernized nearly out of recognition, but if you like history, you can put your finger in the bullet hole in the facade where it richoted off during the Prohibition-era rubbing-out of Dion O'Banion, who had a florist shop right across the street.

Not holy, just standard gangster-era Chicago.

Unfortunately, most Chicago parishes in the oldest downtown and south sections didn't survive the Chicago Fire (1871) so old is a relative term.

I also vote for St. John Cantius for a reverent, old-style Mass in a well-renovated church.

No parish tips, but you simply must eat at The Weber Grill Restaurant. I'm not kidding. And we weren't that impressed by Uno's deep dish. Heard a lot about Chicago's famous food, but I think up here in Toronto ours our much better if I do say so myself.

Ooh - a food recommendation. That's good, too! Thanks. We also had planned on St. Mary of Sorrows but are still wavering over whether to go to the cathedral. Looks like it was nice once...

Eat. Eat in Chicago. Ribs. Steaks. Pork chops. Pizza. Hot dogs.

No dainty food, you can get dainty food anywhere.

Come home all greasy.

I second the Weber Grill, and I add Carson's for Ribs (their pork chops cut like butter). Uno's deep dish is pretty good, I'm sorry it didn't work out for Kathy. Connie's is also good. Mr. Beef for beef sandwiches.

Fantastic restaurants in the suburbs, too, if that's where you'll be. Downtown, you'll be eating with other tourists, but at least the food will be good.